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General Cultivation Questions
Is it true you shouldn’t plant Camellias facing East or North?
No. Try to avoid east-facing positions where the early morning sun shines directly on to blooms on frosty spring mornings, as rapid thawing can damage the plant tissues. North facing is fine as long as it is not also heavily shaded by trees, and the variety chosen is suitable for the location (see Which Camellia Where?)
How tall will my Camellias grow?
Most Camellias will eventually grow to between 2.4m (8ft) and 6.0m (20ft) tall if left to their own devices. There are exceptions such as ‘Contribution’ which has a spreading habit and will only reach 1.0-1.2m (3-4ft) high. Some varieties are also much more vigorous than others and will form a large plant more quickly. All Camellias can be pruned each year to maintain the height and spread you want.
Can I use tap water on my Camellias?
Yes. Although rain water is best, ANY water is better than none. Drying out is the greater evil - and remember that when it rains many plants in containers actually receive very little as it bounces off the foliage on to the surrounding ground.
Can I use animal manure on my Camellias?
Most animal manure is far too ‘hot’ for Camellias unless it is first rotted down to the consistency of peat. Well rotted composts or leaf mould can be beneficial as a mulch - but keep it away from the plant stem.
My Camellia is looking sad and dropping some leaves. Should I feed it?
Definitely not! - would you give someone in bed with the ‘flu a slap-up meal? First find out what is wrong, and get the plant back on the road to recovery before feeding again.
I have what look like little green ‘apples’ on my Camellia. Are they harmful and should I remove them?
These are Camellia seed capsules which contain up to six hazel nut-sized seeds. When ripe the capsule will burst and this may result in Camellia offspring! If this is indeed the happy outcome, the young ones will not flower for at least three years and possibly as much as ten. The capsules are not harmful and need not be removed.
I have well established Camellias in the garden. Can I move them?
Yes. The best time is during the dormant season - usually mid-October to mid-March. If you have to move a plant at other times of the year, lift with the minimum of root disturbance and damp down the foliage frequently after re-planting.
Leaf Questions
Why are the leaves of my Camellia turning yellow?
There are a number of possible reasons. The plant may just have used up all the available nutrients in the soil in which case it needs feeding.
Otherwise it may be that the roots have been standing in water (particularly if a poorly-drained container has become waterlogged over winter) causing them to rot. Improve the drainage (e.g. by lifting the pot off the ground) and let the plant recover.
It is also possible that your soil is too alkaline for good Camellia growth and that the plant is suffering from iron deficiency. This may be alleviated by treating with a feed containing sequestered iron, and by mulching the plant with a suitable acid material such as peat or composted bracken or pine needles.
Don’t forget that all evergreens naturally lose some leaves in the spring, and that Camellias grown in full sun may have paler leaves than those in partial shade.
What is causing brown marks and spotting on the leaves?
This can be due to weather damage, e.g. frost, cold wind or very hot sun - especially in poorly ventilated greenhouses and polytunnels.
The tips and edges of the leaves are turning brown - why?
These are classic symptoms of over-feeding. Water well to flush through excess fertiliser. If all the leaves drop do not throw the plant out straightaway. It may recover and produce new shoots once the chemical balance between root and soil has been restored.
Remember - only feed between late March and August.
What is causing white powder on the leaves?
This again is due to excess chemical nutrients, either from over-feeding or an imbalance already in the soil.
What is the cause of Black Soot on the leaves?
This is probably the most common and unsightly pest of Camellias - and the hardest to deal with. The Black Soot is a fungus or ‘Sooty Mould’ growing on the sugary honeydew secreted by aphids or scale insects. The honey dew drips down from the insects to the upper surface of the leaf below where the mould then grows. Although not harmful to the plant itself, the mould is a certain indication of the presence of one or other of these pests. It is readily moved with a cloth and warm soapy water, but to prevent its reappearance the root cause of the problem must be tackled.
Although there are many types of scale insect, the one most commonly found on Camellias is Pulvinaria floccifera, known as Cushion Scale or Cottony Camellia Scale.
They appear as small (up to about 5mm long), oval shells, ranging in colour from yellowy-green to brown, and found anchored limpet-like to the underside of leaves and sometimes on the stems. In late spring/early summer the females lay their eggs, which appear as a characteristic trail of white fluff behind them. The adults then die, and may drop from the leaf, leaving only the eggs behind. These hatch a few weeks later, and the tiny crawlers’ disperse themselves over the plant, or are blown by the wind to neighbouring plants, before attaching themselves to a leaf and beginning feeding. It is at this stage of their life-cycle that the insects are most vulnerable, before their waxy shell is fully developed. Control them by spraying with a suitable insecticide, making sure to thoroughly cover the leaf surfaces, particularly the underside. A repeat treatment may be necessary (depending on the label recommendation).
Aphids are usually found on the soft, new growth of young shoots and, later in the season, on the developing flower buds. Like scale insects, aphids are usually found on the underside of leaves where, undisturbed, they can rapidly form large colonies. Eventually as the plant growth hardens they will move on, but not before having distorted the foliage and formed copious amounts of honeydew. Prevention is better than cure, and small numbers are easily controlled by wiping off with a damp cloth, or spraying with a jet of water. Natural predators such as ladybirds may also help. If a severe infestation does occur then spraying with a chemical insecticide may be necessary.
Why are the young leaves curling?
This can be due to aphids sucking the sap from the soft tissues, or it may be natural leaf curl which occurs in some varieties, e.g. ‘Bow Bells’, ‘Lily Pons’, ‘Betty Foy Sanders’.
What are the brown, crusty, wart-like scabs on the underside of the leaves?
This is oedema (corky scab), usually formed in humid conditions or poorly ventilated greenhouses. It is thought to be caused by the plant roots taking up water more rapidly than it can be transpired by the leaves, resulting in water retention in the leaf tissues. These may eventually burst and die, leaving the typical raised, corky scabs. It may look unsightly, but does not harm the plant. Removing affected leaves can make the situation worse as the plants ability to lose water is reduced. Try to lower the humidity by improving ventilation and water less frequently.
What is making the little notches in the leaves, and why is my Camellia losing apparently healthy leaves and appears to be dying?
This sounds horribly like vine weevil. The adults make the irregular shaped notches in the leaves, while the larvae (small white grubs with brown heads) feed on the roots and may even ‘ring’ the bark at soil level. Plants grown in containers are much more likely to be affected than those in the open ground.
The adults are mainly nocturnal and difficult to control, so aim your attack at the larvae. Lift suspect plants and examine the root system thoroughly, removing and destroying any grubs. There are then three possible treatments available:
- Biological control with nematodes applied as a drench
- Chemical insecticide used as a drench
- Compost pre-mixed with slow-release insecticide
Whichever method is used be watchful - vine weevil numbers can soon recover if the treatment is stopped.
What is chewing the leaves and sometimes biting off whole shoots?
If it is very low down probably rabbits. If up to about waist height then deer will be the culprits. The deer population is expanding rapidly and unfortunately they like a bit of Camellia as part of a healthy, mixed diet!
Flower Questions
My Camellia was flowering when I bought it two years ago, but it hasn’t flowered since. Why?
This is often a hard one to explain. It may be due to a too shady position, shortage of moisture in the summer (when the flower buds are forming), or even too much feeding. If all else fails, it is surprising how often a re-potting, or moving the plant, can do the trick.
Why are the flower buds dropping off?
This can be due to a variety of reasons:
- The plant may have been either too wet or two dry.
- Extreme weather conditions, fluctuation from mild and wet to very cold and frosty.
- Natural thinning of some buds when there is a heavy multiple bud formation.
- Overfeeding, most likely too late in the season.
- They may not be ‘dropping’ at all - the culprits may be squirrels, birds or even mice!
What can I do to stop flowers going brown and unsightly before they are over?
This is usually caused by frost, wind battering or prolonged wet conditions. A bit of dead-heading will tidy things up, then enjoy the new buds as they open.
There is also a disease, relatively new in the UK, called flower or petal blight (ciborinia camelliae) which can cause early browning of flowers. There is no chemical control available but good housekeeping - sweeping or raking up and burning fallen flowers - may help to reduce the problem. For more information see the RHS or ICS web sites (links).
Why are my flowers smaller than some I see in Camellia displays and competitions?
Flowers on Camellias grown under cover, even in unheated glasshouses or tunnels, will generally be a bit larger. Moreover, in competitions some entrants will have ‘thinned’ their Camellia buds to give larger blooms. As well as size, the colour, and even the form of flower, may vary depending on where the plant is grown.
